Alessandro Michele has done it again, offering us a much-needed escape from reality with his latest couture collection at Valentino. Known for his uncanny ability to craft multifaceted worlds through design, Michele’s work is more than fashion—it’s an immersive experience. His designs always seem to contain layers of meaning, offering something new with every glance. It’s this very magic that makes his latest couture collection a refreshing departure from the mundane, especially given the chaotic political climate.
The collection, titled “Vertigineux,” evokes the sensation of dizziness, much like the intellectual concepts explored by Italian philosopher Umberto Eco. Eco, who wrote about the power of lists to form order and culture, serves as a key inspiration here. For Michele, lists symbolize the “journey into the vertigo of an unfinished multiplicity,” creating a world where each piece is as infinite as it is unique. Michele’s work doesn’t just stand alone; it invites us into a vast, ever-expanding universe where everything is interconnected.
Watching the show in Paris, particularly against the backdrop of American politics, felt like a necessary respite—a moment of pure, dreamlike beauty. With “Vertigineux,” Michele transports us to a place where time, place, and even identity are fluid. The collection took on an otherworldly quality, with influences drawn from Valentino’s archives, literature, art history, and realms of fantasy. In true Michele fashion, his non-linear approach to design gave each garment a life of its own, defying traditional boundaries.
The presentation itself was a visual masterpiece. Models walked individually to a green “X” on the floor, where they paused and faced the audience. Behind them, a red ticker displayed a running list of disconnected words—“juxtaposition,” “vision,” “constellation”—that referenced the look in front of us. Each piece was numbered, and those numbers scrolled across a massive screen, echoing the collection’s 200-page notes. It was as if we were witnessing an unfolding narrative, where each look was a chapter in a larger, ever-evolving story.
Among the show’s most captivating designs were gowns constructed from woven strips of fabric, forming striking triangular patterns, and skirts held up by vintage-style crinoline. A floral dress made entirely of intricate needlepoint tapestry and another crafted from delicate crochet added an element of texture and craftsmanship that was truly mesmerizing. Victorian collars were paired with sleek skirt suits, while cascading ruffles contrasted with dramatic, embellished masks—some evoking the fierce aura of Lucha Libre wrestlers, others reminiscent of a gothic princess bride. Valentino’s iconic ruffles, rich reds, and accordion pleating made their mark, but they were reinterpreted in such a way that they felt fresh, not derivative.
The models, who spanned a range of ages and appearances, were transformed into otherworldly figures, almost as though they were preparing to embark on an intergalactic journey where fashion rules didn’t exist. A staggering 80% of the showpieces were custom-designed to perfectly fit each model’s unique body, underscoring Michele’s attention to both the artistic and human elements of fashion. The precision in the construction of each garment was evident in every detail, from the seamless fit of a jacket to the playful embroidery of multi-colored fringe stacked together to form a whimsical cape. There was opulence in the intricate beadwork and moments of simplicity too, like a sleek black dress elevated by voluminous blue panniers or a pleated purple cape with crinoline peeking through, tied in a perfect bow of Valentino red.
Alessandro Michele’s debut couture collection at Valentino proves once again that fashion is not just about clothes—it’s about creating a world of imagination, beauty, and escape. In a time when the world feels chaotic, this collection offers us a brief but transcendent moment of wonder, where anything feels possible.
