Daniel Roseberry’s Spring/Summer 2025 Couture collection for Schiaparelli, unveiled in Paris, offers a bold reimagining of modernity. Inspired by the tragic Greek myth of Icarus—who flew too close to the sun—this collection delves into the concept of risk and reward. Unlike the typical association of modernity with simplicity, Roseberry challenges the status quo, asking if the new can also be extravagant and intricate.
In his show notes, Roseberry explained his desire to create something that feels fresh by drawing on the richness of the past. “Modernity,” he said, “doesn’t have to mean simplicity. Can’t the new also be baroque, worked, and extravagant?” The result was a collection that pushed the boundaries of imagination, where exaggerated silhouettes—such as bulbous hips and peaked busts—defied convention.
The collection stayed true to Roseberry’s signature neutral tones and metallics, presenting breathtaking pieces like a minidress made entirely of pearls and a flowing gold column gown that seemed to move with the wearer. Roseberry’s work showcases both fantastical creativity and timeless elegance, playing with form and fabric to create a visually stunning and innovative collection.
Drawing inspiration from legendary couturiers like Madame Grès, Paul Poiret, Charles Frederick Worth, and Azzedine Alaïa, Roseberry’s designs evoked a sense of history while boldly redefining couture for the modern woman. The extreme molded waists and intricate pleating are subtle nods to the past, yet the silhouettes remain distinctly Schiaparelli, channeling the house’s mid-20th-century aesthetic.
Since joining Schiaparelli in 2019, Roseberry has continually elevated the house, reshaping its codes for today’s world. In naming the show “Icarus,” Roseberry underscores the ambition and responsibility that comes with designing couture. “Haute Couture aspires to reach great heights,” he says. “It promises escape from our complicated reality, but perfection comes at a price.” Roseberry’s latest collection is a testament to this pursuit—one where imagination soars as high as the sun, with no limits in sight.
