Merit Beauty, known for its viral skincare and makeup products that simplify beauty routines, is now stepping into the world of fine fragrance with the launch of Retrospect L’Extrait de Parfum. This new scent draws inspiration from the classic perfumes of yesteryears, blending vintage elements with contemporary sensibilities.
“Much like our original mission at Merit, our foray into fragrance was sparked by the difficulty of finding something that resonated with us,” explains Merit CMO Aila Morin in an interview with Bazaar. Collaborating with master perfumer Fanny Bal in Paris, the brand crafted a balanced yet robust scent profile that features notes of bergamot, pear, jasmine, rosemary, violet, vanilla, musk, and moss. The fragrance evolves from a fresh floral scent to a warm, musky finish, evoking a sense of nostalgia.
Bal highlights the unique composition: “We incorporated classic notes like aldehydes and orris concrete, which are rarely used today, and paired them with modern elements such as pear and musk. This layering creates a fragrance that feels both familiar and contemporary.”
Retrospect is an extrait de parfum, containing nearly 30% perfume oil, significantly more than the typical 20% found in eau de parfums. Morin notes, “Opting for an extrait over a parfum or eau de toilette emphasizes a vintage approach, prioritizing wear time over bottle size. This decision reflects a commitment to craftsmanship, reminiscent of the concentrated fragrances of the past.”
The name “Retrospect” signifies a reflection on the artistry of fragrance-making. Just as vintage clothing is cherished for its nostalgic appeal while allowing for a modern twist, Merit aims to achieve the same with this inaugural scent. The bottle design, inspired by vintage jewelry and the artistry of classic fragrance containers, further enhances the overall experience.
The development of Retrospect spanned two years and involved over 200 iterations, with the goal of creating an enduring fragrance that resonates with scent enthusiasts. Acknowledging the diverse preferences of their customers, Morin admits, “As e-commerce has evolved, many fragrances have leaned towards trendy notes and straightforward formulas. We aimed to reintroduce nuance into fragrance, even if it means creating something that may not appeal to everyone.”
Rooted in female empowerment, Merit collaborated with five women artists—Yudi Echevarria, Hanna Tvietie, Pia Riverola, Suzanne Saroff, and Lauren Bamford—to shape Retrospect’s campaign. Additionally, they partnered with Gentlewoman to produce a stylish coffee table book chronicling the fragrance’s creation and exploring the broader theme of scent.
“The intentionality behind the design of both the fragrance and its campaign is crucial. We wanted to include women’s perspectives on their relationships with fragrance, making them the narrators of their own stories,” Morin emphasizes. The collaboration with artists and creatives reflects this commitment, utilizing words, imagery, and video to share their unique viewpoints.
To celebrate the launch of Retrospect L’Extrait de Parfum, Merit hosted a vibrant event at the Hannah Traore Gallery in New York City’s Lower East Side, showcasing the fragrance alongside its female-led photography campaign.
Merit Beauty’s Retrospect L’Extrait de Parfum is now available for $92 at meritbeauty.com, poised to become a cherished addition to the fragrance collections of enthusiasts everywhere.